Bitterpan is one of the Kgalagadi's small wilderness camps, set deep in the red dunes between Nossob and Mata-Mata, accessible only along a one-way 4x4 dune road. With just a handful of reed-and-canvas units raised on stilts and looking out over a waterhole, it holds very few guests at a time, which is much of its appeal.

There is no shop, no fuel and no mains electricity, so visitors arrive self-sufficient. Solar power runs the basics and meals are prepared in a shared kitchen. The reward is deep silence and an uninterrupted view of the pan.

The surrounding dunefield is classic Kalahari, sparse camel thorn and grassy interdune valleys where gemsbok, springbok and the occasional black-maned lion move between waterholes. Nights are exceptionally dark, and the camp is a fine place for stargazing well away from any other light.