Duma Manzi is a 5,000 hectare malaria-free private nature reserve on the banks of the Mkomazi (Umkomaas) River, an hour from Durban and a world away from it. Arrival is part of the experience: from the hilltop, an experienced guide drives you down a breathtaking 7 km 4x4 track into the valley, a 25 to 30 minute descent through the wilderness to the lodges below.

The reserve runs from 820 metres above sea level down to 430 metres at the river, a topography of plateaus, densely wooded slopes, drainage lines and a great central basin, with sandstone and dolerite outcrops giving rise to spectacular cliffs. That variety of landscape supports remarkable birdlife: over 350 species recorded, with African Fish Eagle, Martial Eagle, African Crowned Eagle, Verreaux's Eagle, Southern Ground Hornbill, Narina Trogon, Knysna and Purple-crested Turaco among the specials, and the critically endangered Blue Swallow on the list. Guided safari walks take you through it on foot, accompanied by the sound of the river. The reserve is also home to disease-free buffalo, giraffe, zebra, blue wildebeest, kudu, nyala, bushbuck, impala, blesbok, oribi, eland, reedbuck and a long list of smaller mammals.

Accommodation is in eco-lodges built into the riverbank. Sandstone Lodge holds five luxuriously appointed suites, each with its own private plunge pool and glass doors opening from bedroom and bathroom onto a wooden deck above the cascading river, on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis. Fish Eagle Lodge is the private option: four open-plan luxury chalets set apart from the main complex, taken exclusively with their own boma, bar, lounge, dining area, kitchen, deck and rock swimming pool, for self-catering and private dining. A third lodge, Rock Lodge Villas, is on the way.

These are genuinely eco-lodges running on solar power, so by design there are no air conditioners, fridges, kettles or televisions in the rooms: cooler boxes come to your room with your drinks order and hot water arrives in flasks for tea and coffee. What you get instead is the Eco Spa, approached along slate stepping stones to a cave-like sanctuary with a rock plunge pool and jacuzzi; Flavours of the Wild tasting menus paired with local cheeses, wines and artisanal rums; private dinners under the stars and picnics by the river; and The Glass Barn, a safari-style wedding venue for up to 100 guests.